"How Do I Reward My Puppy Without Getting Them Excited?" New puppy mom as of a few weeks ago and saying that it's been hard is an understatement. I understand the concept of praising good behavior when it happens, and we're getting better at it. Fantastic. If the good behavior is going to create downtime on her own or to go sit on her dog bed and wait for me, how do I praise her without making her move? How do I praise her without getting her excited? A very good question. And, a bit of a catch-22, right? If you are seeing your puppy do something that like, so like a sit a down, they're walking with you nicely. They're greeting people nicely. Whatever it is, anything that you love doing, you wanna of course reward And an easy way is with food, with, a little. Piece of a treat that they like. And obviously, that gets your puppy feeling good, feeling potentially excited. But what do you do when, what they're choosing to do and you want to praise is them going to their crate, them resting them laying down? Especially for a young puppy, it doesn't take a lot to get them very excited. And so how do you reward that? And my answer to that would be the reward is the rest. If your puppy is choosing. To go to their crate for downtime or to go to their dog bed, is not something that a lot of puppies can do, and that could be for different reasons. Some puppies really just have a lot of energy. Some puppies are potentially not getting much engagement and enrichment outlets, and so it's hard for them to just want to have any downtime period. But if your puppy is choosing downtime, Chances are you've done things very well and or they're a low energy pup, and because you provided outlets, physical, mental enrichment, socialization, They're then much more likely to choose downtime to go and sit down, rest somewhere, relax. And so if you want to reward that, the reward is that they get to relax. The reward is that they're happy to choose downtime they're happy to go on their bed. That is a huge reward. We all go to bed at night. being happy that we had a good day. And the reward is that we get to rest and get ready for the next day. So what you can do because it's still good to reward a puppy, definitely, a young puppy's likely going to lay down to sleep. So just let them rest. But as they get a little bit older, you'll notice that they go and rest or lay down and not necessarily. Fall asleep as much right away. And so if you want to reward something, reward that. If they're choosing to just lay down or if they're just. Relaxing somewhere. Whether or not you've done activities prior. Give them a little snack. Give them a little something as they get a little bit older to still let them know, Hey, I like that you lay down. I like that you are choosing to spend time alone. I like that you're giving me space. I like that you are not doing things that I dislike. And so as the puppy gets a bit older and they're choosing to do things that you like, Then be a little bit more interactive in your reward, your praise, your voice, the snacks, food, water, is a great reward as well. Until then, the reward is that they're getting to rest, and you should feel proud that your puppy is looking to rest, looking to have some downtime as a result of everything you've done well.

Welcome to one of our Step by Step articles! In these articles, we do our best to avoid lengthy explanations and jump straight into the actions you need to take, to tackle different concerns you may have. Please note: To gain access to this and all of my premium blog posts, you will need to use the Subscribe Now button below. The next time your dog barks at the door, try the following steps: 1. "Bark bark bark!" As your dog starts to bark at random sounds or noise from outside and goes towards the door, start calmly walking in that direction, without saying anything. 2. Once you get to the door, wait for your dog to stop barking (and maybe even a bit of eye contact from them to you) and say "Thank you for letting me know!" 3. Once your dog has stopped barking and you feel as though they're communicating with you through their eye contact/more of their attention, start guiding him back towards the area of your home where you both were before. You can either gesture your dog to walk with you or you can use a leash to help them. (Using a leash can be useful especially if you feel as though Step 2 will be very difficult and lengthy for your dog to go through. If your dog has a tough time barking and communicating with you, you can still try waiting a little for that moment where you feel like he's talking to you, before using the leash to help him walk indoors. Walking indoors can effectively help your dog regulate his emotions and reconnect you both.) 4. After you've guided your dog back to where you were and the noise has ceased, he will likely still feel a little agitated from the door noise, but if he's no longer barking, take this opportunity to tell him "Ok! Let's go check it out.", as a way to let him know that because he chose to stop barking and came back with you, that this all results in you both checking out what the concern might be (dogs bark mostly out of concern/feeling alert) without needing to bark. Once you get to the door, you can put a leash on your dog, slightly open the door, no more than 1-2cm and let your dog sniff the air and see that nothing to be worried about is there anymore. If your dog barks, repeat steps 1-2 again. If your dog doesn't bark, you can thank them once more. 5. After you've checked things out, guide your dog towards doing something else like an enrichment game or any fun game you both enjoy, to help your dog shake off any uneasy feelings. Bonus step! 6. Practice checking out the door together as often as possible, indoors, even and ESPECIALLY when your dog isn't barking or caring about what's going on outside. This will help show your dog that it's okay to check out the door, but that there's no need to do it in an agitated and barking manner.

The best way to find out what breed is the ideal one for you is to read about as many dog breeds as you can, their breed origins, and what they're bred for. If you're considering a mix, make sure that you learn about each breed included in the mix. A great place to do so is the American Kennel Club website. You will find on there that each breed is displayed with its history and traits but also categorized into different types of groups (Sporting, Working, etc). All of which are key details to take into account. In a way, these overall but important details may prepare you for the type of dog you might get but don't forget that dogs are also individuals, and it's very well possible that you might end up with a dog whose personality completely contradicts everything you've learned! This is all simply part of the fun when bringing a dog home. Another place to learn even more about a particular dog breed is breed-specific Facebook groups, as you will be able to ask questions directly to pet parents that live (and sometimes breed) the breed you're interested in! Lastly, take into strong consideration what your lifestyle is, as well as the mental and physical requirements of each breed. The common mistake I see pet parents make is they primarily focus on the aesthetics of the dog (including whether they are or aren't hypoallergenic) or if they're considered family/child-friendly, when they should first and foremost be focusing on everyone's interest to match the potential and drive the dog or puppy their bringing home might come with. Whether you're considering a small or large breed, a puppy, or a rescue, each breed has its own traits. And these are traits that you will not be able to train out of them, but that you will rather want to make sure you provide outlets and encouragement for, in order to best fulfill your dog's needs so that they can then have a happier time giving you everything you want.

When it comes to crate training, and the overall association with dogs, there’s a common misconception that a create is meant to provide your dog with timeouts or help them understand that they’ve done something wrong or that you’re not happy with. And so if you’re hoping to make it so your dog enjoys spending time in his or her crate, you want to make sure you begin with the understanding that your dog or puppy’s crate needs to mean the same thing that your home and bedroom mean to you. Sure, you can go to your home to take a break from the outside world or life in general, and sure you can go to your room when things aren’t going well and take a break there too. But the difference with that and the misconception about dog’s crates is that it’s nearly impossible for your dog to fully understand why they got placed in their crate. Rather, what is most likely to happen is that your dog is associating going inside their crate with a not-so-positive experience. This is ultimately what makes dogs not want to spend time inside of it. Another reason can be their personality, energy level/drive, and other, more individual reasons that are best explored with a private dog trainer. But let’s dive in and take a look at some things you can do today to help your dog enjoy the idea of their crate: 1. This is the most important one! Make your dog's crate available to them when they feel relaxed, mellow, and tired from activities they've done. This way, you can associate how they feel (rest, mellow, relaxed) with being inside the crate. 2. After your dog has burned some physical energy with a game like fetch or tug and pull, help them settle and relax by hiding small pieces of their kibble and/or treats inside their crate with towels, for them to go in and snuffle. This will help slow their brain down and encourage them to spend time there, in a calm mindset. 3. Get a crate cover, and make sure that your dog's bed doesn't cover the entire area. The crate cover will help give your dog's crate more of a den-like feel. And ensuring that your dog's crate has uncovered sections will be helpful so that if he is feeling to warm, he can lay down directly on the crate tray, as opposed to his bed.

"How to Stop My Puppy From Biting on the Pee Pad?" Any tips on how to get my puppy to not bite the pee pad when she's in the crate /playpen with it? She's making good progress with crate training. That's a very good question. I, see this a lot where, either a crate or playpen will be the area where the puppy is, and they, have right there their pee pads as well. As far as a crate goes, unless it's a really large crate and a very small dog, I don't typically recommend putting a pee pad inside a crate, mainly because, of this scenario where your puppy can either use it as a bed or use it as a toy, it's a little bit more difficult to manage because there's not as much room. And so the association of the Pee Pad being strictly for peeing on it, is a little bit more blurred and not as clear to your puppy in that. In that amount of space. So what I recommend instead is sticking to the playpen. To, have it, have the pee pad in it, and if your puppy is chewing it, whether you've decided to use a crate or playpen, it could be that they're either bored, they want to do some activities, so meaning when your puppy's being placed in the playpen or in their crate, It's likely not the right time for them to be in the crate, so what I'd recommend instead is doing activities so that your puppy's going to go in the crate or playpen to rest. If you're using the playpen, you can still have the pee pad in there, but once your puppy's going into their playpen to rest, they're more likely to not. Feel the need to bite or to chew on the pee pad and rather just use it when they feel the need to go, when they feel the need to relieve themselves. If you are doing enrichment activities, if you're doing, socialization, physical activities, or mental activities, and you're finding that your puppy is still chewing on the pee pad, then that will let me know that your puppy is looking for something to nibble, chew on as a means to just sort of soothe potentially even teeth and gnaw on something, so I would make sure of that. Just as much as the pee pad is in the playpen. I would also play some options that come out only when it's time for my puppy to rest. So for example, a Kong, stuffed and frozen with something inside of it. A chew toy, a ball, something that my puppy can gnaw, and again, that I bring out when I know it's time for them to use it inside their playpen. That way it's not just always sitting there and potentially becoming boring. And, that could also be why your puppy is choosing to, if there are already options available there for your pup. If they're still choosing to chew and bite on the p pep, potentially that gets them something meaning If they bite it, maybe they get a reaction from you. Which could also indicate that they're feeling bored. But usually, if you are providing enrichment outlets, then the chewing on the pee pad, the biting, it could just be, Hey, I just want something to nibble on. So, have the pee pad there ready and the playpen, but also have some options for a puppy to. Chew like a Kong and bring it up when you know that it's time for a puppy to chew on something. That way they'll choose the Kong over the pee pad.

Recognizing when your dog is feeling tired, frustrated, overwhelmed, or overstimulated can make all the difference when it comes to dog training and just raising a dog that is capable of making good choices, especially in social settings. Why is it so important to be aware of how our dogs are feeling? The reality is that dogs don't use words to let us know how they feel but they do use their body language and without fault. Being able to understand how and when your dog is feeling one way or another will make it so you will have an amazing relationship, that will be able to thrive in different social settings, where elements that are out of your control will present themselves to you. Understanding when it's time for your dog to take a break, to walk away, to go and relax with a kong, a puzzle, or even just go for a walk can make the difference between having a dog that learns to do that on his own, vs one that feels the need to make the world go away instead. All dogs and puppies have different body language tools to communicate how they feel. Their primary means of communication is body language, and for the most part, it's non-verbal. This means that before your dog has made the decision to bark, whine or cry at someone, something, or at a dog (which in the case of behaviour modification/reactivity it means your dog wants that trigger to go away) he has already gone through his 'protocol' body language responses, and as they have not yielded the wanted results, the need to proceed and escalate with verbal cues is what then follows. This signifies that if we learn to properly (and hopefully quickly) read and react to the non-verbal cues and provide our dogs with guidance, in the form of taking space, walking away, and redirecting them onto something else/better/more positive, we can completely prevent a dog's need to escalate to verbal signs and more, but even more importantly, we are as a result teaching a dog that remaining quiet and more at ease around you provides them with the coping and thriving mechanisms they need and long in order to be able to problem solve in social/human-made settings. It's these same dogs that are provided with proper guidance from us and at the right time, that can then decide to take longer, and feel more comfortable, before feeling the need to react. This then allows them to instead use that extra time to think and realize that perhaps there was no need to feel worried or concerned in the first place. What are some of the signs that we should look out for in our dogs, to know if they're feeling not so happy, or at the very least their normal selves? - Dilated pupils are a common indicator that a dog may be feeling overwhelmed, stressed, and not 100% comfortable with a situation. - Pacing around, back and forth, pacing towards you and away can let you know that your dog isn't feeling too sure and capable of feeling more at ease in that particular environment. - Rapid, sudden panting. Particularly if you're seeing this even though your dog hasn't done much physical activity. It's a way that dogs try to ooze/expel their stress away and feel differently. - Their nose isn't engaging with other dogs, people, or the environment. If your dog isn't using his nose regularly enough in a particular environment and is instead relying more on his ears and eyes, it can be an indicator that they're not feeling comfortable enough to rely mostly on the information they gather from smelling (despite it being much more reliable than that collected through their other senses). - Humping, jumping, and moving very fast and suddenly are also indicators that your dog is trying to cope with the environment they're in, in ways that aren't very conducive to more calm and healthier decision-making. All of these non-verbal indicators and more let us know that our dog may be feeling tired, frustrated, overwhelmed, or overstimulated. And what you want to do more than anything is to give them a break from that space, as soon as you feel a bit unsure of it. You can always come back, but as far as your dog knows, there is absolutely no obligation to return to an environment that both you and your dog feel a little bit unsure of. The most important thing is that you and your dog feel as though you will be successful no matter the terrain, but if you're trying to navigate a setup that is out of your control and challenging for you both, your best bet is to walk away and come back to a setting or at a time, that you find is a bit easier to cope and thrive with, before trying more!

Over the years, as a dog trainer, I’ve had multiple opportunities to work with new puppy families of different backgrounds, ways of thinking, and experiences when it comes to dogs and raising a puppy. But one thing they all have in common is that they thought that I would be coming to their home to teach their pup new tricks when in reality it was them who I was teaching in order to better understand their new four-legged friend, so that they can, in turn, be understood. During those sessions, we did get chances where I would demonstrate a few tricks and tips that I wanted them to practice with their pup on a daily basis. One of them is my favourite lesson that I know any pup or dog can learn given the opportunity, and that is to wait. Waiting is something all animals value and know to do and when to do it. However, in our rushed everyday life, it seems like waiting and being patient is not only something we lose from our daily habits but as a result, also make it so our dogs don’t practice waiting for something either. Sure you might have them sit and wait for their food, but did you know that you can and should be doing this as often as you can? Not only during mealtime. At such a young age of 9-10 weeks, when I work with a pup one of the first things I do is grab their food bowl with one hand while I shake it a little with the other to get the scent and sound going. This gets the pup’s attention and as they try a little jump or paw at the bowl that’s in my hands, I simply wait and don’t say a word until the pup learns in a matter of 2-3 seconds that I am there to reward him for calmly waiting for their food in front of me, before I start sharing a piece or two with them, still without using a word. When pups are first born, from day 1 they start to practice waiting. Even if it’s for a few seconds, they’re waiting for their mom to lay on her side and share her milk with them. This requires patience on both fronts while providing the biggest reward they can get. This is all done without little to no verbal cues, but rather silence, patience, and the instinctual need to survive while figuring out just how. This is instilled in all dogs and any opportunity we get to practice the activity of encouraging the action of waiting for something will always be welcomed and cherished by all involved.

I'm debating whether to get my dog a snuffle mat or a food puzzle for when I go out. My dog figured out a puzzle toy way too quickly, and I'm concerned about leaving her with the smaller pieces. Though she only mouths things, doesn't chew them. This is a very good question. When it comes to snuffle mats and puzzle toys, I love them both. As far as behavior and when I'll use them. Putting aside what the dog prefers usually, dogs that enjoy a snuffle mat will enjoy a food puzzle and vice versa. But as far as if I really wanted to get specific as to how I would use them and when, if I have a dog that is feeling very overwhelmed, very, aroused, very excited, doesn't really know how to settle. I likely won't go towards a puzzle just because a puzzle usually a lot of them will have or require that your dog uses their body a little bit and not so much, their mouth or potentially where you have to carry, move a few things, but also, their paws, their claws to open drawers. A lot of puzzles will have those. So if a dog is feeling overwhelmed or over-tired, potentially. I'd rather switch to a snuffle mat because that's a little bit more about snuffling, just using their nose, just figuring out where the food is and just having to move any fabric to get to it. I would use a snuffle mat in that instance, more so than a puzzle toy. But as far as general enrichment, I would use both, and I would maybe if a puppy's just waking up or you just. Come back from your walk and your puppies are feeling okay. I would go towards a puzzle toy just to get them engaged with that a little bit more, keep maintaining that excitement that potentially came from the walk. I would go towards a puzzle toy and then to help them wind down, I would do a snuffle mat. As far as which one to leave a dog with, I wouldn't leave a dog with. Either because one, I don't want them to, I know she mentions here, or the person mentions here that their dog is not chewing them, just mouthing. I would still not leave, I would still not feel comfortable leaving my dog with a toy that's not meant to be chewed. Like a Kong would be, a chewable toy or rubber toy or something that's really safe. That's what I would leave them with. and again, I would really only leave them when I know that they've gone what they need. Meaning the puzzles, the snuffer mats, the running fetch, playing ball, doing all those things. It's what I would try before leaving a puppy alone, period. And even then, I would only leave them with a Kong or a toy that is designed for chewing that I know is going to be safe for my dog to be left alone with. as far as difficulties, in terms of. Puzzles versus snuffle mats, usually snuffle mats are a little bit easier. Once a puzzle feels too easy for your dog, you do not have to go out and buy a new one unless it's really completely different potentially one puzzle has the option where your dog needs to use, their paw to open draw drawers, and another one asks your dog to, pull on the little boxes to reveal the treats. Then, Sure. But even then, what I would do first is incorporate the snuffle mats and the puzzle toys into some DIY activities. And that's where I would use a cardboard box. That's where I would grab a big empty box and put some towels in, put the snuffle mat in or the food puzzle in, and make it so my dog has. The scavenger has to snuffle just to get to the mat or the toy, the puzzle toy. And so that's what I would do and I would do those while I'm there so I can supervise, and make sure that everything is safe and make sure that after they're finding it too difficult, I can guide them along the way so that they're not getting frustrated.

I think you'll agree with me when I say that a dog pulling on their leash is something that doesn't make going for a walk fun at all. And that's probably how your dog feels as well. Here are the top reasons why your dog is pulling on their leash and some quick tips to prevent and address each point. 1. Over-excitement/pent-up energy The line above says it all! And it can be hard sometimes to differentiate between this point and the following one. An overly excited dog is one that is either triggered by the act of going for a walk because they have through time learned that going for a walk is where they can and will get to feel this way WHILE they get to start and continue walking. There's a lot you can do to start changing that today! Start breaking down the amount of time you normally plan to spend on a walk and use 80-90% of that time doing indoor activities that will help your dog feel calm by the time it's time to go for a short & sweet, calm walk. Indoor activities can consist of tug & pull games, indoor/backyard agility games, nosework & snuffle/puzzle toys. 2. Reacting to a trigger A trigger while on a walk can be anything that'll get your dog pulling, in any direction. Whether it's towards a dog, or away from a loud car, ensuring that we first pick up on a change in our dog's body language (stiff body, perked up ears, long staring/locked eyes) will allow us to then redirect our dog towards a different feeling by showing them that they can refocus on us and lighten up as we walk away, with the help of a fun toy or a few pieces of a rare treat that get tossed in the direction you rather walk towards, calmly. If this behaviour happens early on walks, perhaps even as soon as you leave the doorstep, it's ideal that we work on very short 'going outside' sessions first, by walking in and out of the house and rewarding with food, to allow your dog to let you know when they feel more calm and relaxed prior to proceeding. 3. Overly tired Long walks and/or very mentally stimulating walks (both physically AND mentally) can cause a dog to act differently and in a more difficult manner, as they should at that moment already be back indoors relaxing, enjoying a stuffed Kong, instead of being outside on a walk if they don't yet fully know how to best regulate their own emotions at that point. Work on paying close attention to what amount of time your dog feels the most relaxed outside before they start acting differently while walking, as that'll usually be a good indicator of what their limit is, thus allowing us to move forward with shorter walks daily, to avoid walking an overly tired dog. To end things, please know that pulling is not due to the tool you use but rather a feeling, as you can see from the three points above. That said, a tool that is harm-free, safe, comfortable, and useful is freedom harnesses if you wanted to be even more prepared to work on preventing and managing a dog that pulls on walks.

I've got two males who I just got this weekend, and we are working on their transition. The biggest question is trying to get them on my family schedule. Before it was like a 24/7 buffet. Now I'm feeding them three times a day and they don't finish their food. Any recommendations? Should I leave it out for 30 minutes and then take it away until the next feeding? I kennel them for the night minus a bathroom break or two and a little during the day if nobody's home. I didn't want to leave food in the kennel. I'm trying to keep them cleaner. I'm avoiding most human food until they are on a schedule. This is a very good question. And when it comes to multiple dogs, it's really the same thing, as with one. Ultimately it's going to be about how you provide them with their food puppies, unless, the daily intake, which is where I would double check with your vet as to how much you want to feed them, in a day. And this is where I would look into, that daily amount to potentially, not so much. I know the mentioned schedule here, they want to get the puppy on their family schedule, but when it comes to feeding, dogs don't necessarily have a schedule. Per se. So I would really look into what their daily intake is and more than anything, how I can provide them with the food that they need to be eating within that one day. And so my main recommendation would be exactly that. I would look into how they're currently getting their food. If it's from a bowl, then chances are, and it's funny that it's happening with both puppies, but chances are that they are both just not that interested in their food because of how it's being provided. Through the bowl. They don't indicate the age here, but if you have a very young puppy, an 8, 9, 10 weeks cold, then a slow feeder will do it. Just switching to a slow feeder as opposed to a bowl. And I'm assuming that we're using a bowl here. If not, then potentially, some other enrichment ideas. The ones that I'm gonna mention have already been tried, but, going from a bowl to a slow feeder. To a puzzle. Snuffle mat is definitely the way to go as far as trying new things to get your dogs to eat and enjoy their food, you can even go as far as using a cardboard box and putting towels inside. You can put towels inside old towels with. Their Kongs with their snuffle mats, with their food puzzles make the activities even more engaging and provide, as a result, a lot of mental stimulation for your dogs, which will then make them want to take a little nap afterward, but increase the value of the food that they get because of how it's being delivered. And so that would be my main recommendation as far as. How to feed them. I don't think it's going to be a matter of leaving food out for 30 minutes and then taking it away. That is a recommendation that I see a lot, but I don't personally suggest it because the main issue is that your dog doesn't really have an interest in food in the first place, and you don't wanna really swap that out. going from no interest to, feeling scared or worried and eating out of that reason, meaning eating because they're worried that the food is gonna go away. You want them to eat because they enjoy it and because it feels good, right? And so if you create fun scenarios to deliver the food that they get, and again, supplements. Puzzles boxes, a lot of DIY, options available, you can check my link below on my description so you can really see a lot of different DIY options that will not cost you a thing and will use what you already have at home if you make sure, that you are providing those during feeding time, then. Chances are that your puppy is gonna be naturally, in, in a curious, positive way, be a lot more interested in their food. So if ever you have to use a bowl or something that's not too engaging, they're still going to be likely to eat at that point because you've associated food. With a very fun activity and a very good feeling. And so, that's where I would go as opposed to leaving it out for a little bit and taking it away. I don't really recommend that. I recommend feeding them in fun and engaging ways so that they really look forward to their food and will eat their daily intake. "I kennel them for the night minus a bathroom break or two." As far as leaving food in the kennel, it's not generally something I recommend, I'm fairly strict when it comes to using a dog's crater or their kennel because at a young age, I wanna make sure that we associate it as much as possible with rest and food doesn't necessarily equate to that. It can lead to that if you want to leave food in their kennel, I would do it in a way that is a little bit more, engaging and that's where I would turn to, a Kong, a frozen Kong with a bit of food in there can be something that I really, really like using. Be. Cause a Kong that is provided when a puppy has already done their activities, their engagement routine, physical, and mental socialization, and stimulation. A Kong is a little bit like the pacifier at the end of the day, at the end of the activities that are going to help them soothe and relax just by. Nibbling at it just by chewing it. Just by knowing it, your puppy is going to not just get, the remainder of food that you want them to have, but is also going to mellow out as a result, and they're already in their crate, so they're then likely to just fall asleep and just rest in their crate as a result.